Central Smokies

The central part of the park, along Rt. 441, gets most visitors. On a nice weekend or holiday, this area is best avoided. At other times, the crowds and commercialism of Pigeon Forge and Gatlinburg can be discouraging, but these can mostly be bypassed with some care. (Get a good map.)

It is worth making the trip because this is the location of a number of favorite hikes, and some of the parks highest and steepest mountains. One excellent hike is the two mile climb to the Chimneys, an interesting rock formation. This is one of the nicest short hikes in the park, and also one of the steepest, with a 2000 foot climb. This is a good choice for those with time for only one short hike.

The Alum Cave trail up Mt. LeConte is another excellent trail, climbing almost 4000 feet in 4 1/2 miles. The summit, Mt. Leconte, is not the highest peak in the park, but is definitely the most prominent, with extremely steep cliffs on the Tennessee side. Mount Leconte is the probably the most popular destination of hikers in the club. There are people in the area who have climbed it hundreds of times. It is not an easy hike, but the views can be rewarding, especially on a clear winter day. A lodge at the top, which can be reached only by hiking in, is the only hotel inside the park. There are many other trails up Mt. LeConte as well, including the Rainbow Falls trail and Bullhead trail, which both leave from about the same point near Gatlinburg, and make an excellent 13 mile loop, with a 4300 foot climb up and down. This may be my favorite long day hike in the Smokies.

Also near Gatlinburg, not far from the Rainbow Falls trail, is the Roaring Fork Motor Nature Trail, a one-lane scenic drive which is an excellent place to spot wildlife. I have seen more bears here than anywhere else in the park.

The Appalachian Trail crosses Rt. 441 at Newfound Gap. Charlies Bunyon, a 4 mile walk from here, is an interesting rock outcropping. A side road goes to Clingman's Dome, the rounded high point of the smokies, with an observation tower on the 6643 foot summit. Near Clingman's Dome is Andrew's Bald, a nice short hike. This bald blooms with rhododendron, azaleas and mountain laurel in the late spring.

Following Little River Road from the Sugarlands Visitor's Center leads to Elkmont, until recently site of some occupied cabins and a hotel. The cabins still remain, but are mostly eyesores now, and ought to be demolished. Numerous hikes are popular from Elkmont.

Heading toward Cosby from Gatlinburg, one passes Greenbriar, a pretty little cove from which one can hike to Ramsey Cascades, one of the park's more impressive falls (about 4 miles each way). The branch of the Little Pigeon River here is popular for kayaking.

Great Smoky Mountains