January 11

End Tongariro Northern Circuit

In the morning, there was drizzling rain and little visibility. If it had been clear, I was thinking of leaving at sunrise to try to get back in time to climb Mt. Ruapehu, at least part way. Ski lifts operate there on clear days, taking you most of the way up. But it seemed unlikely that this would be a clear day. There was little point waiting to see the forecast, because it never changes, always "mostly fine".

I decided to take my time this morning, and waited around the lodge a while for the rain to stop and the clouds to start lifting, beginning the 4-5 hour walk back to Whakapapa Village at 9:30, with a very relaxed pace. Signs along the track warned that it crossed lava flow zones from Mt. Ruapehu, but the volcano itself was hidden behind clouds.

I stopped briefly at the old Waihohonu Hut, the first tourist accommodation in the area, built of corrugated metal, in two layers, with pumice between for insulation. The hut was painted bright orange, contrasting with the deep green forest surrounding it. The Australian man, who was walking rather slowly, and who had left after me, caught up with me briefly at the hut.

Beyond the hut, the trees disappeared again. The sun came out around 11 AM, but clouds still hung around the mountains. I crossed more eroded areas, similar to the first day's track, and reached the Tama Lakes at 12:30. I had lunch at an overlook above the lower one, in an old volcanic crater. Although Mt. Ruapehu was still behind dark clouds, Ngauruhoe was now emerging from the clouds.

I left my pack and walked up the steep path along a crater rim to the Upper Tama Lake. There was an excellent view from this ridge, overlooking the sunny, blue Tama Lake, with Mt. Ngauruhoe behind. I stayed on the ridge until 3:00, and then started down the path again, as clouds started moving in again. The Australian man was on the ridge too, as were a number of other people. The Tama Lakes can be reached from Whakapapa Village by a day-hike, so they make a popular destination.

On the way back down, the trail came to a deep gorge with a steep rocky side. A waterfall was here, Taranaki Falls, down the steps from the main track. This is just a short walk from the village, so plenty of people come to see it. Some children were bathing in the cold water under the falls. I walked around the slippery rocks leading behind the falls.

It was a short walk back to Whakapapa Village, through drizzling rain, arriving behind the Skotel near where I started. I looked around the visitor's center a while, and went to the store for a lamb and mint pie, potato chips, ice cream and hot chocolate while I waited for the 6:15 shuttle to National Park. The shuttle actually arrived a half hour early. Most riders had just completed the Tongariro Crossing, having started at the Ketetahi end. The shuttle stopped at a BP on the way back so we could buy milk or other groceries, since the tiny store in National Park closes at 6:00.

I got a room at Ski Haus with one other person, who had also done the Circuit. After showering, I went to the lounge/restaurant, sat at the bar, and ordered a seafood basket with a Mac's Ale. Some Canadian girls were there. One had spent New Year's Eve in Knoxville last year, and thought the Old City was like New Orleans. I would say that is quite an exaggeration. I talked about particle physics with a local man at the bar. He had just seen a program about solar neutrinos on TV. The lounge had a pit with a big fireplace. It was a popular spot tonight. I fell asleep sitting there, and went to bed at 9:30.

Copyright Scott A. Yost, 1996. All rights reserved.