I got up at 6 AM to prepare to meet Lal at 8:00 to go to the airport. I was feeling better now, and took a shower before completing by packing. I had eliminated everything I considered unnecessary after the first trek, so my pack was smaller and lighter this time. However, the suitcase I left behind was now hard to close. I broke one of the fasteners inside trying. I checked out and checked my bag. I was somewhat nervous leaving it this time, now that it contained all the photographs from my first trek. I paid the bill with the frayed traveler's check Lal had been reluctant to accept yesterday. We took a taxi to the airport and arrived very early, before the check-in counter for Necon Airline was open. Lal's backpack was smaller and lighter this time as well. He said the Annapurnas were warmer, so he didn't need as much warm clothes, and didn't bring a sleeping bag. I had a tea while waiting. Finally we checked in, checked our bags, and went through security, where a guard inspected my pockets and asked if I smoke.
The flight boarded on time, and was only partly full. The plane was a small turbo-prop, but was much larger and more comfortable than the tiny Twin Otter we took to Lukla. The flight took about 35 minutes. On the way, they served a soft drink, a biscuit stuffed with spicy potatoes and peas, and a slice of fruit bread. I was sitting on the right side of the plane in a window seat, where the views of the Himalayas were best. We passed over the village where Lal grew up, and he showed it to me.
Pokhara is a relatively large, sprawling city next to a lake. We landed at the airport, which was dusty and had a small collection of buildings, which we did not enter. Then we started walking along a street with many cows and water buffalos. It was warmer here than in Kathmandu, and sunny. We flagged down a taxi driving by, and rode into town along the lake. The lake area looked like a resort, with many restaurants, tropical fruit drink shops, souvenir shops, and travel agencies along the street. People rowed boats out on the lake. The town had a tropical look, with many banana trees. We stopped in a shop and left our return tickets with some of Lal's friends. It was too warm to drink tea, and Lal bought us soft drinks, which were reasonably priced here. Then he went to find a cab, while I waited.
For 600 Rs, we could share a cab with two other people for the 50 km ride to the trailhead. I agreed to this, thus avoiding a long, uncomfortable, bus ride. I shared the cab with a Canadian lady and her guide. She was living in Japan, where she was a teacher. She had been rafting for five days, and now wanted to do a short trek to Poon Hill, which has a good view of the Annapurnas. The driver blew his horn constantly and drove fast. The road was paved, but narrow, and there was a lot of construction. We passed many houses painted with Communist symbols, the sun, tree, and plow, which represented the three Communist parties which joined to form the Nepal Communist Party (United Marxist-Leninists). These symbols are often accompanied by swastikas.
This area was green and agricultural. There were many large hut-shaped haystacks in the fields, and many cows and sheep. We climbed switchbacks up a hill and stopped at a police check-post at the top, where I had my permit checked. Pokhara's lake was visible through the haze. We continued down switchbacks to New Bridge, where we started walking. As we left the cab, children tried to sell be oranges. They grow in trees here, and were fragrant. Lal and I traded packs. I carried his light one, and he carried mine. The Canadian woman was impressed with my high-tech walking stick. We went down the hill from the road and followed a river to Birethanti. At 3280 feet elevation, it is just slightly higher than Pokhara.
We stopped for lunch in Birethanti, and changed to shorts, because it was very warm. For me, this was just a matter of unzipping my pants legs, since my Supplex nylon pants were convertible. This was the first time I removed the legs in Nepal. I had a vegetable-noodle soup, which was much richer than in the Khumbu region. Lal had dal bhatt, which he said is also much better and cheaper here. Lal showed me a map, and told me there would be enough time to go to Poon Hill as well as the Annapurna Base Camp. This was possible because we came so far on the road, which has been open this far only a couple of years. My guide books are not up-to-date on this, so I had thought we would spend at least a day getting this far.
![[Birethanti]](../images/icons/birethanti_small.gif){kind=icon}
It was warm, and flowers were blooming. Marigolds were especially plentiful. They are used in religious ceremonies. Large poinsettia trees were also common. Orange trees, banana trees (some blooming with large red flowers), and bamboo gave the area a tropical feeling, and the buildings were brightly colored. Most had white tops, rust bottoms, and colorful trim, often blue, orange, red, or a combination. Most buildings had thatched roofs, and ears of corn were stacked on balconies.
We walked gently uphill for a couple of hours to Hille. A number of horse trains passed us. These substitute for the yak trains of the Khumbu region. They are said to have been introduced here by Tibetans, and the lead horse always wears bright colors and has a large feathery plume on its head. They move faster than yaks, and you must get out of their way.
All the streams, waterfalls, tropical plants, flowers, and green fields gave this area a lush feeling, which was a welcome change from the cold, desolate Khumbu region. Walking here, at the lower elevation in the warm air, was easy and pleasant. We expected cold weather only for a couple of days, in the Annapurna Sanctuary, which is comparable in elevation to Tengboche.
We passed numerous tea shops and many terraced farms. Women tossed wheat in baskets. There were a lot of dogs here, mostly big black ones that looked a little like German shepherds. They were mostly quiet and mellow, but some would fight with each other. One followed us for a long time. We stopped at the See You Lodge in Hille. Other lodges here included the Solar Power Shower Lodge and the New Open Lodge. Like many lodges here, ours had a thatched-roof outdoor patio with many flowers. Inside, there were private rooms upstairs. We stayed in one. The windows had shutters, but no glass. This appeared to be a converted private home.
By the time I went downstairs for dinner, it was getting dark and chilly. I decided to eat inside. A baby slept in a cradle next to the table, and there was a small Hindu shrine on one wall, next to the stairs. I had mixed fried noodles and onion soup, as did Lal. He bought us a beer, which would not have been included in the budget for the last trip, but since the agency is not paying, he has more freedom. It was getting cold, and there was no stove and only candles for light, so we went to bed at 7 PM just after dinner. We were the only people staying in this lodge tonight. Lal had to borrow my flashlight to go out, because his batteries died. He probably would not find batteries to fit it on this trek, since it took C cells. The room was comfortable, and I slept well.
Scott A. Yost, 1994. All rights reserved.