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February 25

Kilimanjaro - to Camp Shira

I got up at 6:45, and breakfast was brought to my tent at 7 AM, as planned. First, I got dry, yellow bread with honey and margarine, with tea. Then came scrambled eggs with thick, lean bacon and sliced tomato and cucumber. The summit was clearly visible, near the rising sun. Mt. Mera could be clearly seen also. There were few clouds as I set off with Tobias around 8:15. I wore my heavier nylon pants, the ones I used in the Rwenzoris, and a long sleeve supplex-nylon shirt. Tobias wore a Patagonia fleece jacket with a Colorado Outward Bound patch, a synthetic undershirt, green plaid flannel shorts, purple leggings, high white socks, sneakers, and a bright green head band. The guides I saw here, and even the porters, were much better equipped than in the Rwenzoris. The pay is much better as well, and they get work more often. Tobias said he guides about ten trips a year.

We stopped a couple of times for rests, and so Tobias could smoke a cigarette. He said smoking gives him energy. He smokes Sportsman brand cigarettes in a bright red box, whose "YeeSSabo" logo could be seen at bars across Uganda. After a couple of breaks, the Germans passed us, and Tobias sent me ahead to walk with them. The Germans were walking slowly and only passed us because Tobias likes long cigarette breaks. We passed a number of porters, some carrying large meat coolers on their heads. The route today was fairly short, but steep. Some of it felt more like rock climbing. The route leveled off as we approached the Shira Plateau, and the trees became scrawny and sparse.

Camp Shira

Clouds were moving in, and often engulfed us. As we approached camp, there was a nice view toward Shira Cathedral and Ridge. The groups were scattered widely among various caves in low ridges along the plateau. Tobias arrived, and led me to a sheltered spot where my tent had already been set up by porters. It was just before noon, so todays walk had taken less than four hours. I was not at all tired, and could have gone faster. Tea was served with a plate of popcorn and biscuits. I still had my lunch, and ate it too. There were again two sandwiches, one with butter and the other with honey, a hard-boiled egg, a banana, and a mango. The mango was a nice addition. I had a big thermos full of tea, and drank many cups, because drinking plenty of fluids is good for acclimatization.

We were now at 12,500 feet, and won't be going too much higher tomorrow. I was thinking of taking a walk toward Shira Ridge, but the clouds were getting heavier and visibility was now poor. I took a nap instead, until after 3 PM. After 4:00, the clouds started to lift, and I followed the trail in the direction of Shira Ridge, goin as far as Shira Hut, where the other Americans were camped. I got back to camp just as dinner was being served. The soup and bread were ready. The main course was a fried chicken drumstick with french fries and fresh carrots, impressive considering the location. There was also rice with some vegetables: cabbage and perhaps eggplant.

Kibo from Camp Shira at sunset

Tonight's sunset was impressive, with the sky between Mt. Mera and Shira Ridge turning bright red. The pinnacles and Cathedral of Shira Ridge were highlighted beautifully. Kibo Peak was now cloudless, and turned a nice reddish color. I went to bed at 7, but was soon up with gas and diarrhea - the food finally got me. It had been a good trip, health wise, so far. All night I was very gassy, and had to get up five or six times. I took an Immodium, but it made little difference - it was really the gas that was the problem. There were no toilet facilities here, just a grassy area littered with waste and toilet paper. (This is one big problem on Kilimanjaro.) It was a clear, starry night with a bright moon, and the lights of towns twinkled on the plain below.

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