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February 20

Game Drive and Boat Excursion

I got up at 6:00 to prepare for the game drive. It was still dark when I met Baker at 6:20, and I went inside for a quick cup of coffee. We got into the Land Cruiser and tried to find a ranger to come on the safari, but the lodge was full and the rangers were all booked in advance, so we set off without one. Buffalos' eyes glowed in the headlights as they crossed the road in front of us in the darkness. Baker thought he saw a lion once, but it was only a hyena. Some hippos crossed the road as well. We headed across the main road as the sun began to rise, and headed toward the Ugandan kob mating grounds.

Ugandan Kobs Fighting

The sun rose bright red through the thick blue-gray mist. We saw plenty of kob, some waterbuck, buffalo, and warthogs. Salt-lake craters were gathering areas for wildlife. At the second we came to, we found a huge heard of bok. It was a beautiful spot, with the shallow lake shining below as the sun rose

Waterbuck

red behind it. A couple of male kob were gently fighting, locking horns. At one place, we saw at least 50 buffalo together. Warthogs ran by every now and then, but we never saw any lions.

We headed back toward the lodge, passing plenty of warthogs. We arrived at 9:05, in time to have breakfast, which

Warthog

was served buffet-style, and included cereals, fruits, juice, eggs, bacon, sausages, and some delicious corn fritters. Afterward, I watched the birds in the trees around the lodge, and found a couple of very colorful lizards, with blue and green bands. Baker found me and told me I was scheduled for the 2:30 boat to Chimp Island, where they take orphaned chimps whose mothers have been killed by poachers.

The lunch buffet was ready a bit late, after 1:00, and was as impressive as the dinner buffet. It included curried chicken, pepper steaks, minted lamb chops, and assorted vegetables. As for dinner, they charge $13 for this (which is included in my package). After 2:00, we drove down to the Chimp Island boat dock to board two small motorboats for the ride across Lake Edward. A group of southerners was here. A man from Birmingham saw my Smoky Mountain T-shirt and asked where I was from. They were missionaries, and this man, who had gray hair and a beard, actually lived full-time in Kampala. He had lived in Kenya earlier, and had some suggestions about what to see there. He said Samburu was nice, and the lake with flamingos. He said the Masai Mara wasn't worth the drive, and that Mera had deteriorated badly, and Mombassa should be avoided. He also advised not to go out alone in "Nai-robbery".

Elephant at Lake Edward

On the way to Chimp Island, we stopped briefly to see some elephants on another island. There are no animals except chimps on Chimp Island. The first chimps were placed there in May, 1995. Poachers kill female chimps to take their babies. Other babies are left orphaned and will probably die unless rescued. Many chimps can be killed to capture one baby, which often dies while being smuggled. Also, in Zaire, chimps are considered a source of meat, which is about as close to cannibalism as you can get.

Chimps on Chimp Island

Visitors get off the boat on a platform just off-shore. No chimps are visible, but they know to expect the boats, and soon come to gather on the bank before dispersing into the trees. There is one small baby in the group. A man brings food over to the chimps from a nearby island. They are fed twice a day while the visitors are watching. This ensures that the chimps come to meet the boats. We stayed about an hour before reboarding the boats and encircling the island to see the cave where the chimps sleep, and a variety of birds, especially fish eagles.

We got back to shore at 4:40. Baker was waiting. I returned to my room and showered, and then brought my binoculars to the lodge and sat behind it looking for wildlife in the surrounding landscape below. There was an extensive view from the hill on which the lodge was situated. I saw a lot of hippos, buffalo, and warthogs. Earlier, I thought I may have seen a lion, but it was probably a hyena. I took a last look around the small gift shop, and decided to buy a small "kissing mask" for $10. They also had a lot of carved animal and human figures, plus clothing with the lodge logo.

I went to dinner and had just finished a bowl of potato-leek soup when the missionaries came in and invited me to join them. Tonight, the buffet had fish, chicken curry, beef stew, pork medallions, assorted vegetables, and creme caramel for dessert. The crispy breaded pork medallions were a favorite with everyone at the table, and I had two servings of them. I heard some bad news about Kilimanjaro. Reportedly, the most beautiful part of the mountain burned in a big fire recently. I don't know how much this will affect the climb I'm planning.

After dinner, I gave the man from Birmingham/Kampala my VIC business card so he would have my e-mail address. He has internet access through the missionary service, but uses it only for e-mail because it is expensive. When the missionaries departed, I sat out back on the porch and had a cup of instant coffee. There weren't as many people here tonight. Muzak played quietly and a fire burned in the yard. No hyenas came tonight. I went to bed around 9:30. Baker was planning a late departure tomorrow at 10:00, so I would have plenty of time to rest. The night was peaceful, and I slept well.

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