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February 14

Kitandara Hut to Guy Yeoman Hut

I was awakened at dawn by Richard coming in to prepare breakfast. It was cold this morning (35^o F) and I was still tired, having been kept awake trying to throw things at mice climbing down the rope to get the food. I was not too motivated to get up, so Richard served me tea and toast before I got out of my sleeping bag. I took a Larium to prevent malaria, which I forgot to do yesterday with the peak climb and all. There is no risk of malaria this high anyway. I have seen hardly any flying insects at all.

When I got up, Richard brought me some eggs, and Joel said he would like to leave in an hour, at 8:30. The porters were huddled around a roaring fire in their shed. I had been thinking of this as a downhill day, but there was a pass to cross first - the second highest on the circuit, so we started steeply up hill.

I was in the lead today, until the way became sufficiently unclear that I let Joel go ahead. We could see Elena Hut across the valley, high up on Mt. Stanley. The green valley behind us followed the Butawa River from the Kitandara lakes into Zaire below. Eventually, after much steep climbing, we reached a relatively flat marsh forested with small trees and lobelia. It was notable for the large number of birds. I had seen very few birds on the entire trek until now. The last I had seen was a lone duck on Lake Kitandara this morning.

Freshfield Pass

I stepped in deep mud once, but mostly, this bog was relatively dry, as long as you watched your step. We soon came to the 4280 meter (14,040 foot) Freshfield Pass, between Mt. Baker on the left and Mt. Luigi di Savoia (named after the first explorer) on the right. Then, we began a steep, muddy descent into the Mubuku River valley. Joel pointed out Lake Mahoma in the distance. It was not far from Nyabitaba Hut, where I spent the first night. I slipped a couple of times on the muddy slopes, and there were some tricky climbs down rocks. Sometimes, the trail followed a stream bed. We passed under some large rock overhangs, which have at times been used as shelter. Many of the rocks on the way down were shiny with mica.

The forest grew denser as we descended, and a porter caught up with us during a snack break at Bujongola Cave, a small rock house which was once the favored stopping spot before Guy Yeoman Hut was built in the valley below. Joel pointed out the hut when it became visible, still far below next to the river. The porter stayed with us into the valley, talking to Joel in the local language. People here do not look at each other when they talk. They just start talking, so if there is a group, it is hard to tell who is talking to whom.

Mubuku Valley

Eventually, the porter continued following the river bed, and Joel and I followed the trail through the soft grassy valley, passing Kabamba waterfall. We soon arrived at the hut, a new wooden one similar to John Matte Hut. Joel said the river below would be a good place to bathe, on our last night before returning to civilization. But, at 11,000 feet, it was still quite chilly, and the river was freezing, so this would require some motivation.

Richard served me the last of my pineapple with tea, and Joel came into the hut to discuss tomorrow's plans for the end of the trek, a six to eight hour walk combining two stages. Some graffiti on the wall brought up the subject of tips: "To please the potters, you give them bonus" and "Good tourists give potter bonus." I told Joel I wanted to give them something, but that my money was in Kasese. He said tipping was entirely up to me, but sometimes guides go to Kasese with people for a tip, and he could do this. I said I would give everyone a bonus for an extra day, which was within the guidelines in the Lonely Planet book.

If I were carrying more money, I may have liked to give them a bit more. The pay is not very good. Joel said he "digs" when not guiding. The farming provides food for his family, but brings little cash. Joel said there are many guides who work in rotation, normally once a season, unless someone specifically requests a certain guide. I told Joel I certainly could recommend him. In fact, I hoped that through the internet, I might be able to to get many more people to come here. We exchanged addresses. Joel can be reached through the Catholic church in Ibanda. Those who wish to request his services through Rwenzori Mountaineering can ask for Joel K. Kastam.

Richard and I decided on potatoes and vegetables for dinner. There was still plenty of food left, including most of the rice and all of the noodles. Clouds started to come in during the afternoon. I decided to go down to the river and clean up a bit. It was too cold to actually get in, though there were some inviting pools here. I shaved for the first time on the trek, which took some effort. I also tried cleaning and cutting my black fingernails. My hands were in pretty bad shape from hiking through the thick thorny brush. I quickly washed my upper body and dunked my hair as well. My clothes would still stink, but I felt better.

Richard started cooking at 4:30. My Lonely Planet trekking guide was becoming popular, and my equipment porter asked to borrow it. Richard brought me a heaping plate of potatoes with green beans, tomatoes, mushrooms, and peas. Tonight I actually ate it all. After all, it would be my final dinner on the trail. It was pretty good, thanks to liberal seasoning, though I preferred not to watch it being prepared, since the vegetables were now rather mangled and well past their prime. The curry powder and onions added much to their edibility.

Richard came into the hut with my Lonely Planet guide, and asked where I got it. He said he would like to have one. I said I would send him a copy. I didn't know where to find one in Uganda. We exchanged addresses. Like Joel, he can be reached through the Catholic church in Ibanda.

At dusk, the porters gathered wood for a huge fire in their shed, and I took some pictures of the misty mountains up the valley in the fading light, going to bed shortly afterward. The staff was noisy tonight until very late. It was their last night on the trail together, and they were apparently celebrating. As for most nights here, I slept poorly for an hour or two, then was awake a few hours, then got a few hours of good sleep before dawn.

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